Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
